18th century Fantasy- Victorian Jet
Style
From its vibrant color to contemporary placed beaded embroidery- this gown is openly as much fantasy as it is history. In the 18th century there were many genre paintings of women in pastoral scenes wearing ornate, puffed sleeved gowns that are evocative of the fashions of 100 years prior. It is unknown if the gowns shown in the images were the artists imagination, based on contemporary working class silhouettes or inspired, most likely, by what would have been antique or vintage garments of the time. No such extant gowns still exist. I chose a few inspirational shapes from such paintings and redeveloped them into extremely feminine yet powerful lines seen here
Construction
I spent hundreds of working hours went into hand tambour beading of the bodice of this gown and skirt. The larger ornate beads are all Victorian jet and over 100 years old. I love the intentional randomness of the shapes- hearts, triangles, spheres, pyramids all do the the landscape of the silk and seemingly drip down the body. The other beads are a combination of different length bugles and Victorian jet in ever finish from matte to oil slick. The various t.
The body of this gown is constructed by layering silk taffeta over silk organza. The organza gives body to the otherwise paper thin taffeta and allow it to flow in rounder smoother shapes. I chose a darker purple organza color and love the little “pop” of color that is shown when the sides over the overgown flip up. You can best see the effect of this organza flatlining when the gown moves in the back
The sleeves are constructed in two layers- a sheer pale dusty purple underlayer and a ribbon bedecked puffy overlayer. The underlayer is hand french seamed and has the tiniest antique metal cord running through an hand rolled hem. This allows the sleeve to be gathered to fit. The oversleeve is far more voluminous thant its historically accurate counterparts and is flat lined in silk organza. The antique purple silk ribbon mimics the silk velvet closure on the front of the gown.
The gown closes center front with hidden hooks and eyes and few strips of synthetic whalebone. The large ornate glass piece worn is original to the Victorian era.
Accessories
Weary of some of the over the top hairstyles of the later 18th century- I opted for a lower, more controlled look. The caul shape hat actually dates to the 1930’s and is a most unique addition to the gown. I am unlikely to often wear it this way however I liked the change of pace from feathers and ornate curls.
Antique Victorian Amethyst earrings and necklace are a generous loan from a dear friend.
Photography
By Phillip VanNostrand in Venice Italy
