Style
The outfit is intended as a version of high fashion 1915. It is one of my favorite periods of fashion because the looks are so experimental and so clearly made for women (as opposed for the view of men) in their quirkiness, wearability and overall lightness. The clothing seems to have a sense of humor and doesnt take itself too seriously. During this time panniers- tried to make a resurgence- and for a brief moment before the heightening destruction of WWII they did. Also during this time you see wired open front collars. From my previous work you will know that I love anything with structure and body manipulation. My skirt is intentionally cut a few inches shorter than would have been standard in the period and is made to closer emulate the fashion sketches than the extant garments .
Construction
The blouse and skirt are made up in the most beautiful very lightweight silk twill. A dream of a fabric I found at my favorite store and only regret not buying more of.
The blouse pattern comes from an original of the time. Let you not be confused, however, that that made it an easy make! While I kept the shape of the pieces the same- I dramatically altered the fabrics and construction details. I changed the center front placket from an opaque woven to two layers of silk chiffon sandwiching a layer of silk organza (which provides a stiffening element) The varying levels of chiffon and organza makes a play on the opacity of the sleeves. Metal buttons center front and on the cuffs are purely decorative- the blouse actually closes with very tiny hooks and eyes and hand sewn button loops. The entire blouse is French seamed and the pinstripes line up to the pinpoint except at the gathers of the drop shoulder. My one regret! Though it would have been impossible to line up as the pattern was designed- I wish i would have altered it to make it work.
The skirt is my own pattern and was draped on the stand. It is constructed of two pieces that create a chevron effect center front and center back. The stripes shift from the chevron to a horizontal at the side seam. I saw this effect quite often in period sketches and was enamored of it. The skirt is worn over an antique petticoat and a pair of panniers that I made. The panniers are my own pattern and based off of an extant image I found in a trade magazine. They are constructed of cotton bobbinette, narrow grosgrain and synthetic whalebone and have been dyed to match. Far lighter and more wistful than 18th century panniers- they are easy to wear.
Accessories
The spats might be my favorite part of this outfit. It took me 5 versions- Ie 4 failures- to get them to have the skin tight smooth fit that I was aiming for. They are made in a silk satin and backed in a cotton twill. The edges are bound in double faced silk satin ribbon. The buttons and buckles are antique. The buttonholes are hand sewn with silk twist. I am enamored of them and wish to wear them always. I look forward to making more pairs in other colors and styles.
My hat and shoes are original to the era
Photography
Photography by Phillip Van Nostrand. A private chateau in France that shows the scars of its nearly 600 years of total exists was the perfect setting for this WWI era outfit.
